GETTING STARTED IN MODELING

by J. David Lawrence

 
Photographic modeling is an exciting, glamorous, and creative career that can also be financially rewarding. However, modeling is a competitive field. Sometimes people with patience and perseverance, rather than looks are more successful. Rejections are part of the modeling profession, and should never be taken personally. Other than being genetically fortunate, there is usually no luck involved in becoming a successful model. It requires developing some basic skills, following some established business practices, and using common sense. The purpose of this Model Manual is to highlight the necessary skills and acceptable practices in modeling, as a help in guiding you toward a career.
 

Modeling Terms

Here are some modeling terms that you should be familiar with:
A MODEL RELEASE is a contract signed by the model. It gives permission to the photographer to use photographs taken at a particular sitting. If photographs are used without a release, or in a way different from what is stated in the release, the model can sue for breach of contract.
A PHOTOGRAPHER RELEASE is a contract signed by the photographer. It gives permission to the model to use the photographs taken during a particular sitting.
A HEAD SHOT OR CLOSE-UP is a photograph of the head and shoulders.

RUNWAY MODELING

is fashion show modeling. Models work on a long, raised platform about four feet wide.
A COMPOSITE is the models business card. It is also called the ZED card. Currently, postcard-size is popular. One side contains a head shot, the other side several small photographs together with information about the model.
A CONTACT SHEET, also called PROOFS, is a contact print of negatives on 8x10 inch photographic paper. These images are the same size as the negatives, and require us of a magnification glass to evaluate them.
A DRESSER is a person who makes sure that clothes fit the model properly, and pins them if necessary.
A FITTING is when the clothes are fitted to the model, a model gets paid less than the normal modeling rate for this time.
A FREELANCE MODEL is a self-promoting model, one not associated with a modeling agency.
A HEAD SHEET is a poster displaying head shots and information about models represented by a modeling agency.
A PORTFOLIO OR MODEL’S BOOK is a collection of photographs or tear sheets demonstrating a model’s abilities in front of the camera.
A TEAR SHEET is a page containing the model’s image removed from a publication. This sheet is usually added to the model’s portfolio.
A RESUME is a sheet listing a model’s education, experience, and vital statistics. The resume is usually attached to an 8x10 or a composite.
An 8X10 GLOSSY is an 8x10 inch photograph of the model, usually a head shot.
A TEST SHOOT is when a model and photographer work together on a new idea or on their portfolios. No fees other than sharing film and developing expenses are involved. Model and Photographer Releases should be signed before the session.
A GO-SEE is a model’s appointment to see a potential client.
A CATTLE CALL is similar to a Go-see, but involves many models being interview by a client.
 

Types Of Modeling

 

HIGH FASHION MODELING

is the modeling of designer clothes, either at fashion shows or in publications. Sometimes, the modeling of jewelry and cosmetics falls into this category. The models are hired through agencies, and the pay rate is the highest among all modeling jobs. Of course, the advertisers’ expectations also run high. The agencies choose models with a proven track record for this type modeling.
Usually, modeling agencies have the following requirements for new models:
Age under 26
Height 5’9" to 5’11" for women, 5’11" to 6’2" for men
Weight proportional to height
Long legs, especially from floor to knee
Women with a long neck preferred
A good complexion
However, there are exceptions to the physical requirements. For example,
height requirements my be relaxed for jewelry or cosmetics advertisements.

EDITORIAL MODELING

is similar to High Fashion Modeling, except that the model works for a particular publication. The readers of that publication make up a target audience for the photographs taken. Images in the non-advertisement sections of fashion magazines, such as Glamour, Vogue, or Seventeen, are good examples of this type of modeling. The physical requirements are less stringent than for High Fashion Modeling, but the pay rate is considerably less. Many more models are needed for Editorial Modeling, and Editorial experience opens the door to High Fashion Modeling.

GLAMOUR MODELING

is where attractive women have always been featured by manufacturers in their advertisements, in order to draw attention to their products. Such advertisements often contain photographs, seen in magazines, newspapers, posters, billboards, calendars, or TV commercials. More books are written about glamour photography than any other type of photography, and many models are used in these books as well, to demonstrate different photographic techniques. There are no established physical requirements for Glamour Models, other than the model must be beautiful and/or sexy in the photographs. An elegant lady in a evening dress, the eye-catching face of a beautiful girl, a shapely woman in casual dress, swim-wear, or lingerie can all become subject for glamour photography. Some of the nude photography also falls into this category. Pay rates can be very good for Glamour Modeling. Usually, the pay rate doubles for posing in lingerie or in the nude. Some Figure and Art Modeling, typically artistic nude photography, is included in the Glamour Modeling category.

CATALOGUE MODELING

is mostly done wearing store-brand clothes, although some involves posing with products. Even though pay rates are considerably lower than for High Fashion Modeling, it is desirable to get booked as a Catalogue Model, because hours are consistent and repeat-modeling opportunities are high. Look through some mail-order catalogues to get an idea of what is involved. Physical requirements are not stringent. Usually, the side of the clothing not shown on the photograph will have many alteration pins attached, and some models find this inconvenient.

RUNWAY MODELS

must have measurements that fit an actual standard clothing size. There are many different kinds of Runway Modeling. Many modeling agencies specialize in Runway Modeling bookings. Two of the opportunities for Runway Models are:
Designer Fashion Shows, where clothes designers present their upcoming designs.
Fashion Shows, run by a store or by a designer in a store, mall, hotel, or club.
Runway Modeling pays less than photographic modeling. Pay is on a show-by-show basis, ranging from $100 to $400 per show.

SPECIALTY MODELS

with long fingers and well-manicured nails have opportunities to display their hands demonstrating domestic products. For men, a demand exist for the husky, masculine hand, or alternatively the more elegant, long-fingered hand. Women with well-proportioned feet are needed for shoe advertisements. Advertisements of stockings, pantyhose, and razors require women with nicely-shaped legs. Hair products call for male and female models with good hair. There are numerous other Specialty Modeling opportunities. However, you should not start by concentrating solely on Specialty Modeling, Just prepare a standard portfolio, including a few photographs that emphasize areas of your body you might use for Specialty Modeling. Most agencies pick models for Specialty work from their regular modeling pool.

CHARACTER MODELING

is where some jobs require models with an everyday look, such as a truck driver, mechanic, grocery clerk, schoolteacher, cleaning person, appliance repair person, and so on.

CONVENTION AND TRADE SHOW MODELING

are shows that use many female models to demonstrate products and answer questions.

MODELING IN TV COMMERCIALS

offers a growing area of opportunities to models with some acting background. Many modeling agencies now include a TV Commercial Department.

MODELING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS

much like models, photographers need a portfolio, which they must constantly update as they develop new skills or keep up with fashion trends. Occasionally, professional photographers agree to do test shoots of established models with good portfolios. Even though there is no pay involved, these test shoots can lead to well-paying opportunities for the model. Advanced amateur photographers are usually willing to pay an experienced model, for helping them to improve their skills.

OTHER OPPORTUNITIES FOR MODELS

are for the oversized or undersized model. The demand for ordinary-looking models with whom a majority of the audience can identify continues to increase. Many other opportunities exist that might fall into one of the modeling categories mentioned above.

Required Skills

MAKEUP

The makeup that a model uses for her photographic assignments is different from what she uses everyday. In photography, the skin must be blemish-free and smooth, and it must have a matte surface to prevent unwanted highlights. The eyes and mouth should have a fine definition. Otherwise, the fine details of the face will be lost in a magazine image. The loss of detail is due in part to strong photographic lighting, which penetrates the makeup layer, and in part to preparation of photographs for mass printing.
Black & White photography has a special set of problems. For example, since B&W film is less sensitive to the color red, with normal makeup the red areas appear too dark in the print. To overcome this problem, a purple color with lots of blue in it is used on the cheeks and lips (newer films record the tones of different colors more realistically).
In general, photographic makeup is heavier than regular makeup. For head shots the makeup can be lighter, because larger image-size hold up better during the magazine printing process.
Faces come in many different shapes. Photographic makeup should maximize the natural beauty of your face while minimizing any facial irregularities. The ideal photogenic face is oval in shape. If the face is too round, a darker shade of makeup is used on the front edges to simulate shadows, making the face appear more oval. If the face is too narrow, a lighter shade is used on the sides, with the same result. The photographer can also compensate for facial irregularities, by using various lighting arrangements.
In many modeling jobs makeup artist are not available. Therefore, you must learn to apply your own makeup. When you apply for modeling jobs, questions will be asked to determine your skills in applying makeup.
The best way to learn more about applying photographic makeup is to visit local "beauty supply" stores and ask for suggestions. Sometimes the staff will do a free evaluation of your face, and recommend the most suitable makeup styles for you. Check the yellow pages if need be to find beauty supply stores. After you have completed your research, build a photograpic-makeup kit and start practicing the techniques. Most young women are already familiar with basic makeup techniques, so it usually takes only a few days to complete the research, build a kit and learn how to apply the makeup. The makeup kit that you build will go with you to every interview and assignment. Also children and men also use makeup during photographic modeling assignments. (Please note that I am not an expert in makeup, so confirm your look through Polaroid or Test shot)
 

Hair

Long hair, at least to the shoulders, is considered best for female models. No matter what length your hair is, start with a good basic style that allows for versatility. Which hair stylist you choose is critical. Pick a good one based on your own experience, or ask for recommendations from your friend or relatives.
After you have your hair styled, practice changing the look of it. Remember that every time you change your outfit during a modeling session, the look of your hair should also change. Some of the variations are as simple as adding a scarf or flower, or fashioning a wind-blown or a wet look. Most photographic modeling jobs include a hair stylist, to assist you in changing the look of your hair.

Posing

Learning to pose is a career-long process. No matter how much experience you have, every time you work in front of a camera, you will discover some new way of showing your creativity. As a new model, you must first learn to relax in front of the camera, so that you can begin to develop creatively.
Here are two suggestions on how to enhance your posing skills:
Every time you are in front of a mirror, try a different expression.
Show happiness, sadness, anger, surprise, boredom, etc. through the medium of your face.
Go through some fashion magazines and mail order catalogues. Pick 10 photos that you like, cut them out, and paste them into a scrap book, in pairs. Step in front of a mirror, and imitate the pose in on photo of the first pair. Then slowly transform your pose to imitate the pose in the other photo of the pair. Repeat this exercise with the rest of the photos.
In actual modeling jobs, you will be doing exactly what was just described, except that you will have the benefit of a photographer guiding you through the steps. As you can see, posing is not extremely difficult. All you have to do is learn to relax in front of the camera, have fun, and let your creativity come through.
 

A Decision To Make

Before thinking about your wardrobe and portfolio, you should decide which activities interest you in each modeling category. For example, Glamour Modeling ranges from posing in evening dresses to posing in lingerie or swim-wear, to posing seminude or nude. You ought to determine what you would do and not do in the Glamour Modeling category.  Before accepting any modeling assignment, make sure you find out exactly what kind of modeling you will be asked to do.
 

Must Have

WARDROBE

In most modeling jobs, the clothes are supplied by the advertisers. However you need some in style clothing of your own, for use in interviews and your portfolio photographs. You should have appropriate shoes to complement your outfits. If cost is a problem, you might borrow clothing from your friends and relatives, as long as it fits.

PORTFOLIO

The first thing most modeling agencies ask is to see your portfolio or pictures. However, if you are going to try to work through an agency don’t spend to much money on your portfolio, visit the agencies first. They might require a completely different look for you portfolio. Freelance models need more complete portfolios. Ideally, a portfolio should have 24 8x10 photographs. However, most modeling agencies will agree to interview a beginning model if the applicant has at least 2 good photos.
Here are some photographs you might include in your portfolio:
1. An informal head shot.
2. An editorial-style photo, in evening dress.
3. A full-length photo, in a casual outfit.
4. An editorial-style photo, in a sporty outfit.
5. An editorial-style photo, in a coat.
6. A photo of product-demonstration.
7. A full-length photo, in a T-shirt and shorts.
8. A full-length photo, in a swimming suit.
9. A full-length photo, in lingerie.
10. A profile head shot.
11. A profile head shot, in a hat.
12. A head shot, in perfect makeup and hair.
13. An advertising-style photo, in full-length dress.
14. A full-length sport-action photo.
15. A full-length editorial-style photo, outdoors in a dress.
16. A situational shot, creating a "slice-of-life" image. For example getting surprised.
17. A catalogue-style photo, with another model in casual dress.
18. If interested in specialty modeling, a photo featuring the part of your body that you want to model.
19. If interested in figure, art, seminude, or nude modeling, a tastefully-done photo showing your figure.
 

Finding A Photographer To Do Your Portfolio

If you are planning to work through a modeling agency, don’t spend to much money on your portfolio, until you visit some agencies. For freelance models have a good portfolio is a necessity. Also the more different photographers you use to build your portfolio, the better your portfolio will be.
When you pose for your portfolio photographs, not only are you building a portfolio, but also you are gaining valuable experience as a model. Therefore before you choose a photographer, make sure that:
You won’t be rushed. A beginner’s portfolio might take up to six hours, if done in one session.
The photographer takes Polaroid shots in order to check your makeup. This is a regular practice in most modeling jobs.
You do your own makeup. In most beginning and intermediate modeling jobs, there is no makeup artist, and so you are expected to do your own makeup. However, if you have not improved your makeup skills sufficiently yet use a makeup artist.
You are to get all the proofs. Modeling agencies and clients often like to evaluate the proofs before hiring a model.
The photographer plans to use plenty of film, about 5 rolls of 35mm, plus at least one roll of 4x6 or 6x6 or 6x7 cm for close-ups (please note that using 6x6 or 6x7 film is not that important any more due to improvements in the film quality of 35mm and 4x6’s and because touchup of the negatives is usually not done for portfolio pictures).
There is to be no touching-up of the photographs. Touched-up images are useless to the modeling agencies. Besides, photographs without touchup are much less expensive than portrait photographs.
You are given ample opportunity to work on your hair and makeup every time you change into another outfit.
The photographer varies his style and alters the backgrounds, so that the photographs do not appear too uniform.
The photographer has the capability to convert photographs into scanned digital images. The popularity of the Internet’s modeling agencies is multiplying every month.
The total cost of the portfolio is up front. For example, get an estimate for five hours sitting fee, plus your selection of ten 8x10 prints, plus five scanned images.

Hint

: When looking for a photographer, don’t just use the yellow pages. Visit a few photo stores, camera clubs, etc., and ask the personnel if they can recommend a good model-portfolio photographer. Many photographers convert a section of their homes into a studio. With much lower overhead, they can pass on part of the savings to you.
After you select your photographer make sure that:
You bring your makeup kit to the portfolio session.
You bring enough outfits and shoes for at least five or six changes.
You vary your expressions during the session. You check your makeup and hair often,
or ask the photographer to check it for you.
After the proofs are ready, study them carefully with a magnification glass, and pick not more than 10 to be made into 8x10 enlargements. If modeling agencies express an interest in representing you they might ask you to get some more pictures taken, either for your portfolio, for you composites, or for the head sheet.

Getting Started

Unless you are unusually lucky, it is hard to make a living as a beginning model. Typically at the start, modeling jobs will be few and short. Therefore, you should have another source of income, preferably in a business related to the modeling industry, such as:
Beauty supply stores, where professional model suppliers are sold.
Mall’s where models are used.
Photo Stores, where professional photographers shop.
High quality clothing stores.
Fashion coordinators, individuals who obtain clothing for use in fashion shows.
A Majority of models start their professional careers through modeling agencies, also referred to as modeling managers. Select the names of several modeling agencies from the telephone book, or obtain the names through other reliable sources. Then call the closest Better Business Bureau (BBB) in order to check the BBB’s report on each firm you have selected. Call or visit only the reputable agencies.
Below are some of the services for which a modeling agency will usually charge a fee, once you are accepted by the agency. Shop around for the best prices.
Additional photos for your portfolio, your composites, or a headsheet.
Printing cost for your composites.
A resume.
Being included in a headsheet.
If you are going to make TV commercials, you might be required to join a union, and to pay the initiation fee.

Hint

: No reputable modeling agency will want big money up front for portfolio expenses or any other expenses. Remember once you sign with them, they will take a percentage of your earnings. A reputable modeling agency is willing to invest in you with a potential return later. If a modeling agency wants you to invest up front, then I only have one word for you...beware!
  

Warning Signs Of A Non-Reputable Agency,
Or A Non-Reputable Talent Scout

Charges an advance fee, or "registration" fee.
Places nonspecific ads in the "Help Wanted" columns in newspapers, such as "M/F models wanted, no experience necessary.
Uses a name which sounds similar to a well-know agency or person.
Displays pictures of famous models in the office, even though they have never been represented.
Schedules appointments for after-work hours, perhaps in your home.
Pressures you to leave a cash deposit, or wants you to sign a contract immediately.
Asks you to have more photographs taken by a certain photographer, perhaps demanding a deposit for the photographs and payment of the balance before you have even seen the photographs. Unfortunately, some non-reputable firs make tall their money from this forced photography.
Wants you to sign an exclusive contract with them. Know that you can have more than one agency at a time working for you. In fact it is not a bad idea to do so, it compresses time for you. Always demand a non-exclusive contract!
Some modeling agencies also run modeling schools. These schools may be quite good. However, know that you don’t have to attend a modeling school in order to become a model. Mediocre modeling schools are a waste of time and money.
 

What To Do If You Cannot Find A Modeling Agency
To Represent You

 
Remember, rejections are an integral part of the modeling business. Never let rejection divert you from finding your special place in the industry. A modeling agency might already be representing models of your type, and adding another person to the pool might not be fair to you or the others. Keep revisiting model agencies that you like at least once a month. Your repeated visits will tell an agency that you are seriously interested in a modeling career, making it more inclined to represent you. If after a few visits nothing has happened, openly ask for advice. You might obtain some very useful hints.
FREELANCE MODELING is an alternative way to work as a model. As a Freelance Model you are responsible for your own billings, promotions, safety, etc. Here are some ways you can promote yourself as a Freelance Model:
  
Get a composite and resume done.
Call professional photographers in your area to find out if they use Freelance Models. If they do, visit them and leave your composite and resume.
Do test shoots. Sometimes a photographer recommends a model to an agency if the test shoots turn out well.
Visit businesses that use models, telling them of your interest in modeling. Leave them your composite and resume.
Visit commercial film developers and camera stores used by photographers. Tell them your interest and leave your composite and resume.
Call camera clubs. Deliver or send your composite and resume.
Advertise your services in photography magazines.
Register with a Virtual Modeling Agency on the Internet.
Set up your own Web site.

Precautions For Freelance Models

These precautions apply to all models. However, modeling agencies take most of these precautions for the models they represent.
Don’t have your own phone number, address, or real name on your composites and resumes.
If you get a job offer, find out the address and phone number of the job location. Somebody you know must have the name of the person you are working for, the location of the job, and how you can be reached. The person you are working for must be aware that your whereabouts are known.
Take a friend or relative to the job location. If that is not possible, drive yourself to the job location.
Know exactly what kind of modeling you will be doing, the pay rate, and the duration of the session, before accepting the offer.
Prior to the job, get a copy of the model release agreement. Study it carefully, or seek assistance.
  

Pay Rate

How much should a beginning model expect to be paid?
FIRST THREE MONTHS AFTER COMPLETING YOUR BASIC PORTFOLIO
If you are accepted by a modeling agency, expect to be sent out for many test shots. If you are freelancing, try to get as many test shots as possible. Either way, don’t expect to make much if any money during the first three months.
AFTER THREE MONTHS
By this time, agencies should start sending you to paying jobs. They will negotiate your fee with the client. If you are a Freelance Model, you have to negotiate your own fee. Depending on supply and demand, set your fee for about $75 an hour, with a two-hour minimum per session. However, it might be beneficial to accept a lower rate, if the duration of the job is longer than two hours.
After this beginning period, your pay rate should rise steadily, and the number of jobs should increase overall. Typically in the modeling industry, there are busy and lean periods, even for experienced models. When busy, don’t forget to save for the leaner times.
GENERAL RULE
Pay rates vary greatly between metropolitan areas and on a seasonal basis. Therefore, it is hard to pin down exact pay rates. Try to find out what the other models are making for similar jobs in you area, and set your rates accordingly.

A FINAL WORD

Remember, in order to be a successful model, it takes time, hard work, perseverance, and a rejection-proof attitude. If you are really serious about pursuing a modeling career, you will make a firm commitment and stick with it.

Each year many newly successful models appear.

             Become one of them
.